Going to the AZORES (3,4,5,6)


Five hour flight to San Miguel

biggest island of  9.  We’ll stay there

this time.  Watched Big Little Farm

Amy Sedaris and Doctor Ruth.  They all

had their plusses.  Especially Doctor Ruth

and Amy Sedaris.  I wondered what they’d

think of each other.




We drive south to Vila Franco do Campo

for breakfast.  8 in the morning Azores time.

Small medieval town right on the water.  4,000

people.  God plays a big role, as do pineapples.  We

eat on a rooftop  overlooking the sea.  This

could not be more beautiful.  Azorean men

drink coffee outside.   Laughing and smoking

cigarettes.  They look happy to be right here.



We drive through miles of astounding hydrangeas.  Really.

And then arrive in Furnas, where we stay.

Furnas is  home to three volcanoes,

geysers, hot springs, fumaroles.

A fumarole (I  didn’t know the word so looked it up)

comes from fumus in Latin,

meaning smoke. Smoke comes out of the earth.

Furnas stews, even eggs, are cooked underground.

Our hotel has four thermal pools.  You just sit

in them and feel better.  More or less instantly.



The hotel also makes gin and tonics.  Anthony Bourdain

made fun of Azores gin and tonics on a show he did

ten years ago and although i love Anthony Bourdain

I don’t agree with him here.  They use cucumber

and star anise and juniper berries.  We drank

many good gin and tonics.  ( I will try to make them too.)



The man at the desk is named NuNu.  He

tells us what we might want to do:  milk goats, visit gardens,

lakes, mountain paths.   NuNu was born in Mozambique.

“Or you can stay right here and talk to me,” says NuNu.

“It’s your vacation.”



Esther Cohen
Let me tell you why I'm here, and why I hope you'll join me. I am here to poem, to play with words, to tell stories when I can, and to ask you for yours. Words are what I love, how I see, and what I say. Words are how I know my life, and how I find my friends. I'm here to ask you to join me. Right here. To send me your stories, and your poems. And to read mine when you can.


    1. Dear Lilly so happy you are in Calistoga. What a gorgeous place that is. AZORES too. Thank you so much for writing to me. When we’re all back in NYNY let’s have a few drinks. Love to you xxxx

  1. I recommend you take NuNu’s advice to milk the goats. I got up at 3:30 a.m. every morning to milk the sheep on the kibbutz. Goat milk should be even healthier in your coffee.

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