Five hour flight to San Miguel
biggest island of 9. We’ll stay there
this time. Watched Big Little Farm
Amy Sedaris and Doctor Ruth. They all
had their plusses. Especially Doctor Ruth
and Amy Sedaris. I wondered what they’d
think of each other.
We drive south to Vila Franco do Campo
for breakfast. 8 in the morning Azores time.
Small medieval town right on the water. 4,000
people. God plays a big role, as do pineapples. We
eat on a rooftop overlooking the sea. This
could not be more beautiful. Azorean men
drink coffee outside. Laughing and smoking
cigarettes. They look happy to be right here.
We drive through miles of astounding hydrangeas. Really.
And then arrive in Furnas, where we stay.
Furnas is home to three volcanoes,
geysers, hot springs, fumaroles.
A fumarole (I didn’t know the word so looked it up)
comes from fumus in Latin,
meaning smoke. Smoke comes out of the earth.
Furnas stews, even eggs, are cooked underground.
Our hotel has four thermal pools. You just sit
in them and feel better. More or less instantly.
The hotel also makes gin and tonics. Anthony Bourdain
made fun of Azores gin and tonics on a show he did
ten years ago and although i love Anthony Bourdain
I don’t agree with him here. They use cucumber
and star anise and juniper berries. We drank
many good gin and tonics. ( I will try to make them too.)
The man at the desk is named NuNu. He
tells us what we might want to do: milk goats, visit gardens,
lakes, mountain paths. NuNu was born in Mozambique.
“Or you can stay right here and talk to me,” says NuNu.
“It’s your vacation.”